Red poppies and the tall yellow flowers of wild fennel lined the winding road through the Madonie Mountains, where I followed the signs to Susafa, a farmhouse hotel in Sicily. The paved road beneath me instantly transitioned to dirt, the deep potholes dictating my speed as I took in the sweeping views over the rolling green hills, simultaneously voicing my disbelief that the hotel was actually down this road.
Convinced I would pop a tire or break down on the side of the road, I was grateful to be doing this drive midday, with daylight guiding my way. After what seemed like an eternity (yet really wasn’t), a nondescript sign beyond a cloak of trees announced our arrival at the gate. I was buzzed in and directed to follow the driveway to reception.
Vibe
Upon entering Susafa, a sense of tranquility instantly envelopes you. The previous stress from the drive quickly fades from memory as you’re instructed to leave the car and luggage behind, and make your way up to a rooftop terrace. A chilled drink of homemade almond milk mixed with fresh fruit appears soon thereafter, providing your first taste of Susafa.
Steeped in history, family, and rooted in nature, Susafa seemingly sits at the top of world, with nothing but rolling hills around for as far as the eye can see. Birdsong is the soundtrack you as you take it all in, realizing you have truly arrived at a timeless oasis with a history begging your discovery.
Backstory
Part of the Saeli-Rizzuto family since 1870, Susafa has been a working wheat farm for hundreds of years.
A welcome letter in guest rooms reiterates that Susafa is a property personified. The spirit, the history, and the soul of the property are alive and well, constantly evolving for the better. Susafa isn’t just a place, it’s a feeling. Walking the ancient stone pathways, you feel it, you smell it, you hear it, and you breathe it in, until you become a part of it.
Manfredi Rizzuto, the fifth-generation owner, exudes pride when he shares youthful memories of running around Susafa, carefree, with his two children now following in his childhood footsteps, climbing treehouses and chasing the chickens.
It was Rizzuto’s vision to modernize Susafa as an eco retreat, a modern farmhouse hotel in Sicily, with nature, wellness, and sustainability at the heart of the project.
With over 50 varieties of plants growing wild among the regenerative wheat fields and olive groves, the 500 hectare parcel of land relies on rainwater for irrigation, solar and photovoltaic power for hot water and electricity, and has a zero km philosophy that utilizes everything grown onsite.
Rizzuto’s goal is to redefine sustainable luxury and demonstrate how hotels don’t have to choose one over the other.
Design
A true agrotourism farmhouse estate, Susafa retains it’s historic architecture and charm, yet through Rizzuto’s lens, it’s been reimagined for a modern, conscious traveling set who appreciates quiet luxury.
A blend of imagination (repurposing the fermentation room into the swanky lounge and bar, and transforming the granary into a top notch restaurant), permanence (maintenance of the family home), and creativity (transformation of former stables and dwellings of the sharecroppers, bakers, and winemakers into guest rooms and suites), the forward-thinking Susafa of today mirrors the one of the past, with an elevated and sustainable look and feel.
Guest rooms are simple, with understated elegance coming through in the Sicilian chestnut beamed ceilings and handmade Sicilian terra cotta tiled floors. Designed to be havens for disconnection, the lack of a television is hardly an inconvenience as french doors open to the gardens, providing a front row seat to the sights and sounds of the ultimate nature show.
Bath products are made onsite, from the family’s olive oils and house made almond cookies welcome guests upon arrival. The absence of a mini bar is intentional, in an effort to save energy and avoid plastic and food packaging waste.
Wellness
There are various interpretations of the meaning of the word Susafa, but the one that resonates most is ‘Mountain of Wellness.’ Wandering the property, nature is the true highlight as the views, the scents, and sounds combine to create a sense of inner peace.
During the summer months, guests can enjoy a massage in a garden bungalow under the carob tree, or in the privacy of their own room. A multi-sensorial experience, massage oils are created from Susafa’s olive oil and aromatic herbs grown onsite.
Time truly stands still as there’s nowhere to go, but exactly where you are. Be it the lush gardens, the serene pool, the rooftop terrace with 360-degree vistas, the tucked away deck overlooking the property that is equally perfect for a morning meditation or sunset cocktail, it’s impossible not to slow down, disconnect, and recharge your batteries while at Susafa.
Food + Drinks
Not all farmhouse hotels can claim an extraordinary dining experience onsite, yet the restaurant at Susafa – housed in the former granary – certainly can.
Anchored by a massive fireplace, the vaulted ceilings and stone walls allow you to envision what the original granary used to be. The white table cloths on heavily spaced tables, elegant stemware, and perfectly orchestrated service remind you of the seamless transition over the years, into a trend-forward restaurant rooted in history.
Jazzy lounge beats like Les Etoiles by Melody Gardot emanate as diners choose between set menus (like ‘Scents of Sicily’ or ‘Garden’), or a la carte choices that pull from both.
Surprising amuse bouche like a one bite, elevated arancini with a liquid filling set the tone for the playfulness of the menu. Freshe baked bread is perfectly crusty on the outside, delicately soft and moist on the inside.
Local specialties like spaghetti with sardines or sea urchin pasta are elevated with a rich depth-of flavor that take your palate by surprise. Be open minded and trust chef Maria Calato and you will not be disappointed.
The wine pairings are a must, as the sommelier guides you through Sicily, introducing and explaining the characteristics of each region and nuances of varietals like Grillo, Nero d’Avola, and Catarrato.
Sicilian Immersion
A cooking class at Susafa is a memorable experience that passes quicker than you’d like. Chef Melissa Sciavolino, is a bundle of energy whose sense of humor transcends languages, making her contagious laughter an unexpected gift.
Her three-hour class is heavily based on local ingredients (mostly grown onsite), with hands-on instructions on how to (and not to) prepare regional dishes, peppered with lessons in Sicilian history, geography, and Italian traditions.
From arancine (fried rice balls with assorted fillings) to panelle (a chickpea fritter) to fried sage (they like to fry things in Sicily), you’ll walk away with a handful of recipes and a full belly just in time for a poolside nap. A proud Sicilian, she’s also happy to share her favorite local spots in nearby Palermo, steering you clear of tourist traps.
What’s Nearby
The beauty of Susafa is that there isn’t really anything ‘nearby.’ However, when driving in Sicily, distances may be long, but they are beautiful, whether the terrain is mountainous, rural, coastal, or urban. Here are some highlights located a short distance from Susafa.
PALERMO
Often described by locals as ‘gritty,’ Palermo is a thriving urban hub on the coast that’s laden with Sicilian history, architecture and street food. Per Chef Melissa, visit Capo Market and try the arancine at Dainotti’s and I Segreti del Chiostro for the most authentic cannolis. (1.5 hours)
CEFALÚ
A picturesque coastal town, Cefalú is anchored by limestone rock, the Rocca, overlooking the medieval town and sandy beach. Visit the Duomo and enjoy a granita in the plaza. (1 hour)
VILLA ROMANA DEL CASALE
One of the most cherished sites in Sicily, the Roman Villa del Casale in Piazza Armerina dates back to the 4th century and is currently a UNESCO Heritage site that is home to some of the best preserved Roman mosaics. (1.5 hours)
Planning Your Trip to Susafa, a dreamy farmhouse hotel in Sicily
Sicily may be an island, but it is large, with long driving distances between the triangular corners of the island. Give yourself at least 5 days (a week is better) and always calculate the distance between destinations before settling on an itinerary. The island’s southernmost location in Europe makes it an ideal spot for a warm weather vacation, best taken in spring or fall.
Susafa is equidistant between Palermo (PMO) or Catania (CTA) airports, about 1.5 hours to either. Plan to spend at least two nights at Susafa to fully appreciate all it has to offer. As a Travara Membership hotel partner, Travara Members who visit the Susafa farmhouse hotel in Sicily also receive a special gift upon arrival.
MICHELLE ARELLANO MARTIN
