September in San Sebastian, Spain is my favorite place to be. Always.
The stifling summer heat has started to wane, the crush of tourists starts to trickle out, and the city is buzzing with local pride, sporting events, and most impressively, the glamorous San Sebastian International Film Festival.
Whether you come for the food, scenery, or activities, Basque culture is ever present and vibrant, making September the most magical time of the year to be in San Sebastian.
Euskal Jaiak (Basque Festivals)
Established in 1896, Euskal Jaiak is a week long celebration of Basque culture taking place in towns all over the Basque Country.
The first celebration in early September, Euskal Jaiak first launched in San Sebastian in 1927 and continued annually, barring a pause during the Spanish Civil War and brief hiatus between 1985-1994 due to changing social dynamics.
Revived by local gastronomic clubs, the festive events have continued to grow in popularity over the years.
Featuring everything from agricultural competitions to cider pouring to traditional dance and music, events are centered in the Parte Vieja, or the old town which is the heart of the city.
Donostia San Sebastián Turismoa
Bandera de La Concha (Las Regattas)
Over the course of two weekends during Euskal Jaiak, men and women from nearby towns compete in a highly anticipated rowing competition in the picturesque La Concha Bay.
With roots that go back to 1879, the regattas always take place the first two Sundays in September. Historically, it was a mens competition, but women began competing in 2008, creating two separate races on each Sunday.
Each local team has their own flag with distinct colors and the city swells with proud revelers representing their local teams. The event is free to watch from the beach and the bars in the old town are packed with cheering their teams on while watching on the big screens.
A friendly competition, it’s a great source of pride for the winning communities who can claim bragging rights until the next year.
San Sebastian International Film Festival
The allure of the San Sebastian International Film Festival (SSIFF) is undeniable – to cinephiles, foodies, and stargazers alike.
Pleasant weather, a walkable city with Belle Epoque charm at every turn, and an expertly curated roster of international films that consider culture, cuisine, independent filmmaking, and artistry all combine to make September in San Sebastian and SSIFF one of the most desirable film festival experiences around the world.
From the historical Victoria Eugenia theater with crushed red velvet seats, gilded balconies, and a ceiling fresco, to the modern Kursaal event center, attendees criss cross the Urumea River buzzing with excitement over the latest films garnering awards buzz, and star sightings on the red carpet in front of Hotel Maria Cristina.
Held annually, from mid to late September, advance planning is a must, especially for accommodations. To plan your trip and access the festival with insider scoop, read our full guide here.
MICHELLE ARELLANO MARTIN