As I sipped and swirled in the wine cave at Ô Chateau in Paris one night many years ago, I learned something very important about French wines. Once you discover the profile of a region’s wines, and hone in on your preferences, you can essentially choose any bottle from that region and find something you enjoy. After moving through the country on our wine tasting journey, I quickly realized that Haut Médoc was the region for me – as I love a full-bodied red with Cabernet Sauvignon roots. And now I know that Le Coeur des Vignes is the perfect cozy Bordeaux B&B to pair with a wine tasting visit to the region.
Vibe
If you were visiting friends or relatives who happen to live in the middle of vineyards, their home might feel a lot like Le Coeur des Vignes. Welcoming and inviting, with a ‘door is always open’ type of feel, this charming Bordeaux B&B is centrally located in Pauillac, a gem in the heart of the Haut Médoc wine region.
The moment you park and enter through the garden, passing the pool and outdoor terrace, you instantly feel at home, especially when welcomed at the door by the lovely owner Pascale.
With decor that could easily be either family heirlooms or flea market treasures, it strikes a warm balance between eclectic and French countryside charm. A traditional stone walled kitchen is open aired and visible to the guests, while the relaxing rooms have vibrant pops of color from the bold textiles, and romantic château and vineyard views from the windows.
Backstory
Ten years ago, owners Pascale and Alex fell in love with the Pauillac house that has now become Le Coeur des Vignes. Built in 1880, it was originally a manor house, complete with staff, before being taken over by an artistic couple.
Charmed by the original cement tile corridor and the mature garden anchored by a eucalyptus tree, it was the views over the Second Grand Cru Classé Château Pichon Baron, one of the most beautiful estates in the Médoc, that captivated Pascale and Alex most.
When the previous owners decided to move to Normandy, Pascale and Alex jumped at the opportunity to purchase the property and embarked on a yearlong renovation to achieve their dream of opening a Bordeaux B&B that combined their passion for wine, hospitality, and gastronomy.
Design
Featuring just five guest rooms, Le Coeur des Vignes is divided into three floors. The ground floor welcomes guests from the garden into the dining room, with views of the open kitchen where Pascale lovingly works her magic.
The thoughtful renovation of the property added ensuite bathrooms to each room, now stocked with sustainable toiletries and products, like locally made cotton makeup towelettes. New windows and solar-powered blinds modernized the property while keeping the integrity of the original design and leaving fireplace hearths as part of the decor. The original 19th century French artistic parquet floors have been preserved and polished to perfection, adding to the provincial charm.
Each room has a sofa bed and can fit up to 4 guests, perfect for families or small groups of friends. The goal was a timeless aesthetic with the comforts of home, effortlessly achieved with antique furniture and thoughtful touches like fresh flowers. The lack of a minibar or tv adds to the tranquility and sustainability of the property, allowing guests to disconnect and take things slow.
Dining
A homemade dinner by Pascale is a must when staying at Le Coeur des Vignes. She takes allergies and intolerances into consideration and lets the season and the market guide the menu. The multi-coursed portions are hearty and clearly made with pride and and the desire to surprise and delight the guests.
A selection of locally produced wines is the perfect solution if you haven’t had a chance to make it around to each of the chateaux in the region.
Breakfast selections are made the night before, with plenty of options and accommodations for special requests. One highlight is Pascale’s deliciously creamy, homemade, lactose-free yogurt that she learned to make years ago, from a secret recipe.
Wine tasting
One of the best things about Le Coeur des Vignes is the location. The downside to wine tasting is the driving, but you can easily spend your day walking between chateaux and tasting rooms, and find yourself back in time for a delicious home cooked meal.
For traditional Grand Cru Classé private tasting experiences, try Château Pichon Baron, Château Pichon Comtesse, Château Lynch Bages, and Château Haut-Bages Libéral (a pioneer in regenerative farming)— all less than 2km away. Château Léoville Poyferré in Saint-Julien is also reachable on foot. Reservations can be made in advance online at Médoc Vignoble and Conseil des Vins du Médoc.
For something a bit more special and unique, you must visit Domaine Les Sadons. Just a few doors down from this gem of a Bordeaux B&B, Alain Albistur is a dear friend and neighbor of Pascale and Alex, who also happens to excel as a winemaker.
With less than 1 hectare of sustainably managed terroir, nestled between the vines of Pichon Baron and Pichon Comtesse, Alain crafts a boutique production of wines aged 18 months in high quality French oak barrels. The result is a range of easy to drink, full bodied wines that pair perfectly with an afternoon tasting (and belly laughs, as he’s quite the character) in his tiny tasting room a few doors down.
Local Markets
While Pascale tries to source as local as possible, much of the land in Pauillac is used by the vineyards. Instead, she frequents the Wednesday farmer’s market in Saint-Vivien, north of the Médoc, for her organic vegetables, flours, and grains from La Ferme de la Grande Canau.
The Gironde estuary provides beautiful oysters, prawns, and fresh fish. Pascale also recommends the Saturday market in Blaye, on the opposite bank of the Gironde. Visitors can park in Lamarque and take the ferry across to the market, which sits right on the waterfront, featuring exceptional local products.
Inside Scoop
An expert in the region, Pascale is quick to share tips for exploring the region. A driving circuit takes you from Margaux to Saint-Estèphe, passing some of the most iconic estates in the region – Palmer, Margaux, Mouton Rothschild, Lafite Rothschild, and Cos d’Estournel.
In Margaux, don’t miss the charming chocolate maker Mademoiselle de Margaux who produces refined chocolates crafted in the delicate shape of vine shoots, a tribute to the winemaking heritage.
For a more active excursion, Pascale also has a recommended cycling and walking itinerary around the Pauillac appellation, and can connect guests with local bike rentals.
What’s Nearby
Château Pichon Baron
Visible from the B&B bedrooms, Chateau Pichon Baron is located next door, just across a small vineyard. Open to the public, the grounds are stunning, perfect for a stroll or a picnic. The modern tasting room has views over the vineyards as well as the chateau.
Cafe Lavinal
Located in the most charming little square, just outside Chateau Lynch Bages, Cafe Lavinal is a quintessential French bistro with a bar area and dining room. With a reasonable menu of the day, you can easily spend a 3-hour lunch lingering over wine flights (pro tip: treat yourself to the Lynch Bages and visit their boutique after lunch).
Château Pontet-Canet
Also located in Pauillac, Château Pontet-Canet is a family-owned, organic and biodynamically farmed winery that uses horses to plow their soil to protect the old vines.
How to Plan Your Trip to This Cozy Bordeaux B&B
From vineyards to bustling city life to urban innovation and eco hotels, Bordeaux has many sides worth discovering. The perfect trip combines a visit to the city center with the vineyards. You can get to Bordeaux by plane or train from Paris (pro tip: pair your Bordeaux trip with a stay at the most conscious, green hotel in Paris) easily, and once in the walkable city center, you can see everything by foot or public transportation.
A car will be necessary to explore the vineyards unless you simply take a day trip from the city, but we highly recommend getting a car and losing yourself in the vineyards for a few days.
With Le Coeur des Vignes as your Bordeaux B&B base, take your time exploring Bordeaux’s Left Bank, specifically the Haut Médoc villages of Pauillac, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Saint-Estèphe, Listrac, and Moulis. Always be sure to check in with vineyards to confirm available dates for visits before finalizing your schedule.
MICHELLE ARELLANO MARTIN